Cooking

Who is Alfredo Sauce, and why do Americans keep asking about him?


alfredo vertical

Running our cooking and culinary vacations in Italy, I’ve heard it time and time again.  “I can’t wait to have Fettuccine Alfredo in Italy“.  Ummm, sorry friend… you won’t find it.  It isn’t Italian.  Well, that isn’t entirely true, actually.  You can get it in Italy, but you will never find anything like it it on a menu, and certainly not by that name.

To get you in the right frame of mind, imagine I served you a simple slice of toast with a pat of butter on it, and I told you this was a special dish I call ‘Bread alla Michael’, you would laugh, right?   Fettuccine Alfredo falls into that realm for an Italian.

My Stomach is Unsettled Tonight

When you were growing up, if you had a little stomach ache, maybe your mother gave you some chicken broth.  Perhaps some simple rice, or a little toast?  If your stomach was unsettled, she gave you something light, right?

In the pasta culture of Italy, one of the most common things ‘mamma’ would have given you is a very simple pasta, called ‘pasta in bianco‘.  That translates to ‘white pasta’… or more indirectly, ‘without any sauce’.  Of course, mamma would never have just given you pasta without flavor, so she put a little butter and Parmesan cheese on it to get you to eat it.

It is the most basic of pastas.   You will never find it on a menu in Italy, because who in their right mind would go out and pay to have Pasta In Bianco?  It is so simple, so basic, that if you really wanted it any restaurant could give it to you, so to advertise it on a menu would be like Ford advertising that their cars have steering wheels.  Duh!

To go to a restaurant with the purpose of ordering this dish would be like going to a Chinese restaurant with the purpose of ordering plain, steamed, white rice.  It simply is what it is.  And if you DO ask for it in a restaurant in Italy, the waiter may show concern for you, thinking you may not be feeling well.

The Pregnant Wife

So why am I rambling on about stomach aches, anyway?  This is how ‘Alfredo Sauce’ was born.  As the story goes, there was a restaurant owner of a touristy restaurant in Rome back in the 1920’s.  His name was Alfredo, and at the time he had a pregnant wife. She was regularly having pasta in bianco, because she couldn’t keep anything else down.

The story they tell you now is that one day Alfredo rushed into the kitchen to make a special dish that she simply could not resist, and he suddenly invented Fettuccine Alfredo… well, it makes for a good tourist tale, but it is just Pasta in Bianco. It is what any Italian would make on any given day for any pregnant woman suffering from nausea.

One day, Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks were at his restaurant and had this dish that the wife had been eating.  That day the pasta happened to be Fettuccine, and of course she was having it ‘In Bianco’.  They loved it,, and gave Alfredo a picture of them to hang on his wall along with a golden spoon and fork.

The Recipe

Alfredo gave them the “recipe”.  I put recipe in quotes for a reason. Try to imagine if a visitor asked you for the recipe for buttered toast.  To any Italian, giving the “recipe” for pasta in bianco is just like that.

When they went back to Hollywood, they began to serve it to friends, telling them about Alfredo’s restaurant in Rome.  Alfredo suddenly found Hollywood elite visiting his restaurant, looking for ‘Alfredo’s Fettuccine’, so it made its way to his menu.

Pasta in bianco was now ‘Fettuccine Alfredo‘, at least for the steady stream of tourists that frequented his place.  Many actors also contributed photos, of course.  The restaurant became a very popular tourist destination for Americans.

Off To America

After several years, Alfredo sold his place to the person that runs it now.  But he later got involved with another group of entrepreneurs, who opened another Alfredo (including Alfredo’s in New York, Vegas, and Disney).  Fettuccine Alfredo became even more popular in America as a result, to the point that it became a staple in just about every Italian restaurant in the US.  Of course,, as good Americans, we need to make everything bigger and better, so ‘Alfredo’ became a ‘sauce’ for just about everything, almost like a Starbucks ingredient for coffee.  Chicken Alfredo, Shrimp Alfredo, Tomato Pesto Pasta Pine Alfredo….. ugh.  People began to add cheese, pepper, starch, and who knows what… to the point that any white creamy thing that went with pasta became ‘Alfredo Sauce’.  In America.

New-Yorkese Cuisine

That is how much of what we believe to be Italian food came to be. Imported, morphed and combined shadows of what the real Italian thing was.  I call it ‘New Yorkese’.  Buca Di Beppo is not an Italian chain, it is a New Yorkese chain.  Maggiano’s? New Yorkese.  Olive Garden?  No, I won’t even give Olive Garden such a high designation.

You won’t find spaghetti and meatballs in Italy.  You will never find olive oil and herb dipping sauce with your bread.  There will be no Chicken-Pesto pasta, and you won’t see a meat lover’s pizza.  You will also never see Alfredo Sauce.  That is, unless you happen upon the restaurant that exists with the sole purpose of capitalizing on the fact that you are seeking it out.

L’Originale Alfredo

You can go there.  It is in downtown Rome.  They will have beautiful outdoor seating, they will have a people that will serenade you, and you will see the pictures all over the walls.  And yes, you can order a dish of Pasta in Bianco.  ummm, I mean Fettuccine Alfredo.  You will be joined by nothing but other Americans that were looking for the same place, for the same reasons.  You will find no Italians, no other Europeans, nada.

This place is there just for Americans.  If that is what you are after, by all means go and have a wonderful time.  It is truly a pretty place.  But for those that are looking for something authentic, by all means, keep walking.   Since they don’t cater to Italians here, they can get away with low quality ingredients, producing low-quality food.  Why?  Because you are a tourist and you won’t know the difference.  Why not stay home and go to Olive Garden if you want bad Italian food?

Actually, if you find yourself there and suddenly see what I am talking about, there is a great place next door called ReCafè, which makes fantastic pizza.

But if you really, really want it…

Hey, just because it is extremely simple, doesn’t make it bad, right?  Actually, Pasta in bianco is a wonderful light dish, just not something one would pay a premium for.   So when you are in Italy, don’t worry about the fact that it is not on the menu.  If you want it, order Fettuccine In Bianco.  If you want creamy, you can ask for Fettuccine Con Panna.  It will be what you are looking for, but will be much better than what you will get at the Alfredo place.  But if you go into ANY Italian restaurant and ask for ‘Alfredo Sauce’, they will certainly ask you who Alfredo Sauce is.

In the meantime, I have to throw in a shameless plug.  After all, our company is all about authentic Italian food and cooking vacations in Italy.  If you want to get a feel for the real thing, check us out.  You may just find an Italian vacation of your dreams.

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  • Ha. Love it. A couple of years ago I was doing an American recipe thing here in Italy and asked my Italian husband for advice on what to make.

    His first suggestion?

    “Cheeken alllfreddo,” said in the best-and cutest!-imitation Texas-accent he could muster.


    • HAHAH. I love when Paola ties to do a southern accent, too. But then again, she laughs when I try to do a Veneto or Napolitano accent 😉


  • Great story, love it.

    Reminds me also when I had my appendix out in Italy and I was supposed to eat “in bianco” for 2 weeks, which basically meant I could have anything white. Well, not anything (like not white chocolate), but anything bland and plain, and usually it ended up being white.

    I started asking my Italian friends what ailment I’d need to have to eat only green foods, or only red foods, etc. 🙂


  • My husband and I were invited to Alfredo in Rome…the one that claims it invented the pasta. We were not impressed, The fettucine were very overcooked, to the point you almost had to eat them with a spoon.
    .-= Danielle´s last blog ..Extreme Makeover Termini Station =-.


    • Of course it was overcooked… They are strictly catering to the American expectation of Food in Italy. Sadly, many tourists never actually get truly good food there 🙁


  • I’m so glad I’ve never walked into any of those tourist traps. I’m fortunate to be able to walk around with my boyfriend and know what’s good and what isn’t.. Although I can pretty much tell on my own now. Still have to get the ‘bargaining of prices’ down pat. In Rome, we happened upon a real authentic Roman… well it couldn’t be called a restaurant, a hole in the wall is more like it. lol How did we learn about it? Let’s just say the man yelling in Roman dialect on the street corner gave it away. In spite of the leeriness you may get from ‘advertised’ food, it was actually real Italian food. 🙂

    Overcooked pasta, yuck!
    .-= Catherine´s last blog ..Love Thursday: April Showers Bring… =-.


  • We always had Pasta in Bianco when I was growing up. A lot of times we had it on Fridays during lent. I always wonder why mom never made Fettucini Alfredo.
    Had Fettuccine Alfredo recently at an Italian restaurant in New Jersey. It was a gluey over cooked mess and I couldn’t eat it.
    By the way our family calls the Olive Garden fast food Italian!


  • My family was just here in the States from Italia and they asked us, Who is Alfredo, is he the cook?


  • inesines

    Author Reply

    HISTORY OF FETTUCCINE ALL’ALFREDO AND OF ALFREDO DI LELIO THE CREATOR OF FETTUCCINE ALL’ALFREDO
    We are the grandchildren of Alfredo Di Lelio (Alfredo and Ines Di Lelio). The story is this. Alfredo di Lelio opened the restaurant “Alfredo” in Rome nel 1914, after leaving his first restaurant run by his mother Angelina Rose Square (Piazza disappeared in 1910 following the construction of the Galleria Colonna / Deaf). In this local fame spread, first to Rome and then in the world of “fettuccine all’Alfredo”. In 1943, during the war, Di Lelio gave the local to his collaborators.
    In 1950 Alfredo Di Lelio decided to reopen with his son Armando (Alfredo II) his restaurant in Piazza Augusto Imperatore n.30 “Il Vero Alfredo”, which is now managed by his nephews Alfredo (same name of grandfather) and Ines (the same name of his grandmother, wife of Alfredo Di Lelio, who were dedicated to the noodles).
    In conclusion, the local Piazza Augusto Imperatore is following the family tradition of Alfredo Di Lelio and his notes noodles (see also the site of “Il Vero Alfredo”)


  • MickMick

    Author Reply

    wondering if there is someone in the world with the name, Alfredo Spaghetti………………..


  • arielariel

    Author Reply

    true!!! I did not know what these Alfredo fettuccine were until my American friends explained to me 😀

    later I found out that they… existed (!), but I did not see any recipe with this name in an Italian restaurant, maybe years and years ago?! Boh!!! 😀


    • Ariel, It was originally just Pasta in bianco. Over the years it developed into something different in America.


  • Finally someone who made it clear!


  • NancyNancy

    Author Reply

    My Italian American mother-in-law (May she rest in peace) made a white sauce with butter, cream, Parmesan cheese and EGG YOLKS, which to me is as close to heaven as you can get! This is what our family calls ‘Alfredo’ She was from Beluno.


  • I never understood what Alfredo sauce was untill now. It made no sence to me. Im like what are you talking about, ive never seen that in italy!


  • Weird, my family isn’t from Italy or anything (ancestors are from Europe) but for us buttered noodles was a poor person’s dish (we were poor) and or sometimes we’d have garlic butter noodles. I was Googling around trying to see where the idea would have originated.


    • We were also poor. Buttered noodles was a staple in our house for years. Sometimes we got to sprinkle grated parmesan on them as a treat. I make buttered noodles as a side dish for my own family now. They love it. But my mother knew how to cook so well that I didn’t realize we were poor until I was much older. Our house never felt poor: good food, warm home, joyful family and great friends. Miss those days.


    • My mother went through that in the Bronx during the depression. If there was a piece of butter on her macaroni, that was a real treat.


  • Spook and fork?


  • pedropedro

    Author Reply

    thanks


  • So despite the implication of the title of the blog, Alfredo sauce did in fact develop in Italy centuries ago. Alfredo took credit for pasta in bianco and sold it to some American tourists. He couldn’t sell it to Italians as they all made their own version of Bianco sauce. The Americans went home and some enterprising chef then created new but not necessarily improved versions of the sauce and today it is somewhat unrecognizable in its native country.


    • So the difference between what “Alfredo Sauce” is and what “in bianco” is, is entirely different today. Pasta in bianco did, in fact, develop centuries ago, but is was a traditional simple pasta that would not then (or now) be offered on a menu for Italians. Generally in the south, they used olive oil, and in the north, they used more butter because of what was more common in the various areas. Similarly, in southern areas, the cheese was generally Pecorino, and in the north is was Parmiggiano, or some similar variant for the same reasons. However, the story in the article is a true account. The way it came to be known to Americans, and its attribution to Alfredo was correct. Americans did change it considerably over the years, as in American-Italian cuisine, there was a tendency to make more rich and creamy sauces. The Alfredo restaurant in Rome adapted accordingly to what the Americans came to expect and continued to take advantage of the opportunity of the myth of “Alfredo Sauce” in their entrepreneurial spirit. I seriously doubt “Alfredo” even bothered to attempt to sell it to Italians, as it would be an impossible concept to sell pasta in bianco as some special dish, or even the more creamy adaptation. Furthermore, he was able to create a brand targeted at American tourists willing to pay an exorbitant price for a dish of pasta based on this myth that no Italian would ever consider paying.